what is the jewelry history – Have you wondered about that before? Well, jewelry has been an integral part of human history for thousands of years.
early jewelry history evidence dates back to the ancient civilizations that flourished in the Mediterranean and Iran around 3,000 to 400 BC. During this time, jewelry was crafted from basic stones, typically as amulets and seals. These pieces often held significant spiritual value, adorned with intricate designs such as stars and flowers.
Although the form and materials of jewelry in the ancient and modern eras would differ, one thing that remains the same is that jewelry has always symbolised something. Different cultures have assigned different values to jewelry, for instance, you might have heard about the curse of Kohinoor and the healing powers of Emeralds.
THE ANCIENT ERA of Jewelry History
The recorded history of most civilizations highlights how the customs and traditions influenced the jewelry of that civilization. Some buried it with the dead while others revered it for curing ailments. However, as mentioned earlier, metal and gemstones were used much later in jewelry. It began with articles like wood, fish bones, shells, colorful pebbles, etc.
During ancient times, handmade jewelry from such unendurable articles was made and worn.
MEDIEVAL ERA of Jewelry History
In the medieval period, Western Europe was plagued with war and famine. It was difficult for people to make ends meet let alone focus on the development of art and technology. As a result, the jewelry worn during this period reflected the stark differences between nobility and commoners. The former wore silver, gold and precious gems while the latter sufficed with base metals such as copper.
A few features of jewelry history in the mediaeval era are as follows:
Jewelry such as necklaces, brooches, and bracelets was worn for personal adornments and as a status symbol. The warriors embellished their weapons with gemstones.
Gold was the most prominent metal used in jewelry. Moreover, different techniques were used to decorate the metal such as enameling, plating, gliding, etc.
Gemstones were cut and polished into cabochons with rounded edges.
RENAISSANCE ERA of Jewelry History (MIDDLE OF THE 15TH CENTURY)
The renaissance period was an era of immense socio-cultural change. It is in this period that a lot of new continents were discovered, trade was expanded and major development in the field of art and culture took place.
A few features of jewelry history in the Renaissance era are as follows:
One of the most iconic pieces of jewelry of this period was pendants. They were enameled on both sides and worn with chains.
Further, jewelry items evolved from brooches and shoulder clasps of the mediaeval age to more sophisticated items such as earrings, chandeliers, be jeweled headdresses and more.Gemstones like emeralds, diamonds, rubies, topaz, garnet amethyst, etc. were used prominently in jewelry.
BAROQUE JEWELRY (BEGINNING OF THE 17TH CENTURY)
Over the years a change in the dressing habits of people took place and this affected the evolution of jewelry too. For instance, in the Renaissance period, people wore rigid and contorted dresses while in this period people started wearing soft, light and fluffy dresses. As a result, a new range of jewelry was made to match the dressing style.
A few features of jewelry history of this period are as follows:
Gemstones like diamond, ruby, pearl, and topaz were frequently used in jewelry. In fact, high-quality imitation jewelry was produced on a large scale due to the growing demand of the working classes.
Another development of this period was the decoration of watch cases. A lot of time and effort was invested in decorating them.
Jewelry in the shape of pea pods, leaves, flowers, and flower bouquets was a specialty of this period.
VICTORIAN ERA of Jewelry History (1837-1901)
The Victorian era refers to the period of the reign of Queen Victoria. During this time a lot of changes were brought in the jewelry.
A few features for jewelry history of this era are as follows:
Even during the Victorian era, gold and silver remained the most common metals for use in jewelry such as necklaces, rings, etc.
Gemstones such as amethyst, garnets, turquoise, sapphires, pearls, and diamonds were quite famous.
Motifs involving animal designs, especially serpents were quite popular in this era.
The Victorian period may be further divided into three sub-periods. Jewelry of each sub-period correlates with Queen Victoria’s life.
ART NOUVEAU (1890-1910)
The period was named after the 1895 opening of Siegfried Bing’s Persian Gallery ‘Maison de l’Art Nouveau’. It gave a natural touch to the jewelry which was appreciated by society that was becoming increasingly aware of decorative quality. By the end of the 19th Century, the styles of this period became globally famous.
A few features of jewelry history of this era are as follows:
Since Art Nouveau is a celebration of free form, it has organic structures devoid of symmetries.
This period’s most prominent themes and motifs were Insects such as dragonflies and butterflies.
A distinguishing characteristic of this period was Enamel coated on jewelry. Plique-a-jour and Champlevé were the two famous enamel used in the coating of jewelry of this era.
ART DECO (1920-45)
Art Deco pieces are renowned for their geometrical, angular and clean look. In fact, they inspired many architects to design landmarks with the help of these concepts. The designs of this period were modern styles blended with fine craftsmanship and rich materials.
A few features for jewelry history of this era are as follows:
Platinum was the primary metal used for jewelry in this period.
Jewelry of this period consisted of unique geographical designs with contrasting colors.
A variety of gemstones such as sapphires, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and onyx were extensively used in jewelry.
RETRO (1939-1950)
The Retro period reflects the period of WWII and the victory that followed. A significant characteristic for jewelry history of this period is that yellow gold gained immense popularity overtaking even platinum and white gold.
As platinum and other alloys used for making white gold were required to make weapons, the manufacturers were denied from purchasing such metals during the period of war. The designs of pieces were chunky and futuristic but lacked gemstones as their supply was cut off during the war period.
FIFTIES ERA (1950S)
The world was ready for an animated display of gems and jewelry. Manufacturers of this era not only focused on the creamy layer but also catered the needs of the growing middle class through their designs.
A few features for jewelry history of the Fifties Era are as follows:
Gold regained its popularity but with a twist so as to suit modern taste.
Floral, ribbons, bows, and leaf designs were prominent during this period.
The pieces were ,More refined as compared to that of the 40s Retro style.
Arts & crafts jewelry
Developing in the last years of the 19th century, the Arts and Crafts movement was based on a profound unease with the industrialized world. Its jewelers rejected the machine-led factory system – by now the source of most affordable pieces – and instead focused on hand-crafting individual jewels. This process, they believed, would improve the soul of the workman as well as the end design.
Arts and Crafts jewelers avoided large, faceted stones, relying instead on the natural beauty of cabochon (shaped and polished) gems. They replaced the repetition and regularity of mainstream settings with curving or figurative designs, often with a symbolic meaning.
Contemporary jewelry
Since the 1960s the boundaries of jewelry have been continually redefined. Conventions have been challenged by successive generations of independent jewelers, often educated at Art College and immersed in radical ideas.
New technologies and non-precious materials, including plastics, paper and textiles, have overturned the notions of status traditionally implicit in jewelry.
Avant-garde artist-jewelers have explored the interaction of jewelry with the body, pushing the boundaries of scale and wear ability to the limits. Jewelry has developed into wearable art. The debate on its relationship to Fine Art continues.
Today, the jewelry we find in stores is remarkably different from those in ancient times. Well, as humans learnt how to mold metals and polish diamonds, silver, gold, copper and diamond jewelry gained popularity.
sources: www.sgl-labs.com | www.vam.ac.uk